Natalie Westphal Blog
Powder Brows Healing Process: What to Expect and Why Aftercare is Crucial
Powder brows, also known as ombré or shaded brows, have become a popular option for those looking to achieve fuller, more defined eyebrows. This semi-permanent makeup technique involves creating a soft, powdered effect that mimics the appearance of makeup. Unlike traditional microblading, which uses hair-like strokes, powder brows offer a more filled-in.

As beautiful as powder brows look, the journey to perfect brows doesn’t end when you leave my studio. The healing process is a crucial stage that affects how your brows will look long-term. It’s essential to understand each phase of healing, as well as follow proper aftercare, to ensure the best possible results.
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1. The Day of the Procedure: Fresh Brows
Immediately after your powder brow procedure, your brows will look dark, and possibly a bit swollen. This is completely normal. The pigment appears much darker initially because it's sitting on top of your skin and has not yet settled into the upper dermis layer.

What to Expect:
  • Appearance: Your brows will be more defined and darker than you anticipated.
  • Sensation: You might experience slight tenderness or tightness in the brow area, similar to a mild sunburn. Plus skin around the brows might be red. Thats a result of irritation. It will go away soon.

What to Do:
  • Keep the area clean and avoid touching your brows unnecessarily.
  • Blot the area gently with a clean tissue to absorb any excess lymph fluid, which can prevent scabbing.

2. Days 1-3: Dark and Defined

In the first few days following the procedure, your brows will continue to look darker than expected. The swelling will subside, but the pigment will still be bold. The skin is beginning to form a protective layer, which may feel slightly tight.

What to Expect:
  • Appearance: Your brows will still look very dark, and the shape may appear more defined than you originally wanted.
  • Sensation: The skin may feel tight, but this should be mild. Some clients report minor discomfort, but nothing extreme.

What to Do:
  • Aftercare: Avoid water on your brows for 4 days.
  • Moisturize: Apply a thin layer of the aftercare ointment provided that you recieved after your appointment once a day.

3. Days 4-7: Peeling and Flaking

Around day 4, the healing process truly kicks in. Your brows will start to scab, peel, and flake. This is the skin’s natural response to healing, as it sheds the upper layers where the pigment has been implanted. During this phase, your brows may look uneven or patchy.

What to Expect:
  • Appearance: Your brows will begin to flake and peel. It may seem like you’re losing the pigment, but this is normal. The color might appear to fade drastically, but it will return.
  • Sensation: Itchiness is common as the skin heals. Do not pick at the peeling skin—this can pull out the pigment and cause patchy healing.

What to Do:
  • No Touching: Resist the urge to pick or scratch at your brows. Let the scabs fall off naturally to avoid disrupting the healing process.
  • Moisturize: Continue applying the aftercare ointment lightly as directed by your artist. Do not over-moisturize, as this can affect the healing process.

4. Days 8-14: Soft and Faded

Once the scabbing phase is over, your brows will enter a phase where they may look significantly lighter and softer than expected. This is sometimes called the “ghosting phase,” where the pigment appears to have faded or disappeared entirely. However, don’t worry—the color will start to come back over the next few weeks as the skin continues to heal.

What to Expect:
  • Appearance: Your brows may look very light or patchy at this stage. Some areas might seem darker than others, but this is a normal part of the healing process.
  • Sensation: The itchiness should subside, and the skin will begin to feel more normal.

What to Do:
  • Stay Patient: The fading is temporary. The color will gradually reappear as the skin regenerates.
  • Avoid Sun Exposure: Protect your brows from direct sun exposure, as UV rays can affect the pigment during this delicate stage.

5. Weeks 3-4: Color Returning

Around week 3, the color will slowly start to return. The pigment, which was once hiding under the healing skin, will become more visible, and the brows will begin to take on their intended shape and shade.

What to Expect:
  • Appearance: Your brows will start to look more even, and the color will appear softer and more natural. However, the final result may still not be fully visible yet.
  • Sensation: By this point, the skin should feel completely normal, and any itching or tightness will have subsided.

What to Do:
  • Aftercare: You can generally stop applying ointments at this stage, but continue to keep the area clean and avoid harsh skincare products around your brows.

6. Weeks 4-6: The Final Look

By week 4 to 6, your powder brows will have fully healed. The pigment will have settled into the skin, and the color should be more even and beautiful. At this point, you can see the final results of the procedure.

What to Expect:
  • Appearance: Your brows should now look soft, natural, and perfectly blended. The final color will be visible, and any areas that may still seem a bit light will be touched up during your follow-up appointment.
  • Sensation: Your skin will feel completely normal, and the brows will look and feel like part of you.

What to Do:
  • Touch-Up: Touch up is recommend in 6-8 weeks after the initial procedure. This is an essential part of the process to ensure the pigment is evenly distributed and to make any necessary adjustments.
Why Aftercare is Crucial for the Best Results
The healing process is not only about your body’s natural regeneration—it’s also highly dependent on how well you follow aftercare instructions. Proper aftercare plays a significant role in ensuring the pigment heals evenly and that your brows last up to 1,5-2 years.
  • 1
    Avoid Water
    For the first 4 days, avoid getting your brows wet. Excessive moisture can cause scabbing, which may result in uneven pigment retention.
  • 2
    No Makeup
    Refrain from applying makeup directly on your brows while they heal, as this can introduce bacteria and irritate the skin.
  • 3
    Avoid Sweating
    Heavy sweating can lead to pigment loss. Avoid strenuous exercise and activities that cause sweating during the initial healing period.
  • 4
    No Sun Exposure
    Protect your brows from direct sunlight. UV rays can cause the pigment to fade prematurely, especially during the healing stage.
  • 5
    No Picking
    Do not pick at the scabs or peeling skin, as this can pull out the pigment and create gaps or uneven areas in your brows.
  • 6
    Moisturize Sparingly
    While it’s important to keep your brows moisturized, overdoing it can suffocate the skin and interfere with healing. Follow your artist instructions carefully when it comes to applying ointment.
  • 7
    Avoid Harsh Skincare Products
    Stay away from products with retinol, acids, or exfoliants around the brow area during the healing process, as these can disrupt the pigment.
What Happens if Aftercare is Not Followed?

Failing to follow proper aftercare can result in a variety of complications that affect both the healing process and the final result of your powder brows:

  • Pigment Loss: Neglecting aftercare can cause the pigment to fade unevenly or prematurely, leading to patchy or incomplete brows.
  • Infection: Without proper care, the risk of infection increases, which can lead to scarring and permanent damage to the brow area.
  • Uneven Healing: Picking at scabs, applying makeup, or exposing your brows to moisture too soon can cause the pigment to heal unevenly, resulting in a need for additional corrections.

In Conclusion

The powder brows healing process is a journey that requires patience, attention, and proper care. While it may be tempting to rush the process or skip certain aftercare steps, following the instructions provided by your artist is essential to achieving the beautiful, long-lasting brows you desire.

Each phase of healing serves a purpose in ensuring the pigment settles correctly, and your final look is even, natural, and gorgeous. Trust the process, follow the aftercare guidelines diligently, and in a few short weeks, you’ll be enjoying your stunning new brows for long time.
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